When in Iran, the term ‘nostalgia’ will fall on one’s ears.
Perhaps it is due to the rapid pace of urban development that has led to the demolition of historical houses and neighbourhoods over the past twenty or thirty years.
‘Nostalgia friends’ are those one grew up with in the pre-Internet era — those who were called on rotary phones, invited over to play in the tree-filled garden of a single-level villa, or who watched cartoons on a black-and-white TV with rabbit ear antennas and three channels.
The original French term – ‘nostalgie’ – is used. If an equivalent exists in the local vernacular, it has not yet become commonplace.
Few places in Iran evoke a sense of nostalgie as the Tajrish Bazaar. Nestled in the hills of the Shemiran district in northern Tehran, amidst the proliferation of high-rise apartment buildings and modern shopping malls, this vibrant marketplace dates back a couple of hundred years and remains a symbol of the city’s living heritage.
Visiting Tajrish Bazaar feels like stepping back in time. You can stroll through its winding brick alleyways, where sunlight filters through tiled archways, casting a warm glow on the shadowy corridors.
As you explore, you’ll find a treasure trove of traditional crafts, handwoven carpets, gold and silver jewellery, and aromatic spices that showcase the richness of Persian culture, all while merchants call out their wares amid the lively crowds.
This bazaar attracts locals and tourists throughout the year, especially during the final days of the Persian year before Nowruz, which means ‘new day’ and marks the first day of spring.
Just as visiting Christmas markets is a cherished winter tradition in Europe, Tajrish Bazaar is the place to visit during the Nowruz season.
The aroma of fresh narcissus flowing through the air, the spicy scent of baghali ghatogh (fava bean stew), and the colourful palette of dried fruits amidst an array of coloured eggs, candles, mirrors, and goldfish create a wonderland heralding the arrival of spring.
Ancient traditions
As always, the celebratory mood is palpable at Tajrish Bazaar during Nowruz. Visiting this historical gem, where culture and commerce intertwine, feels like a rite of passage.
Bahar Parvaneh, whose name means ‘spring of the butterfly’, carries bouquets of fresh-cut narcissus and daffodils that she will use to adorn her home for Nowruz.
“For me, this bazaar is not just a place to shop,” she says. “It’s a piece of old Tehran that still lives and breathes. Every visit creates a new memory, a new shade of nostalgia.”
“Tajrish is the quintessential Tehran bazaar, one of the most famous in the country,” adds Habib Farid, who manages a copperware stall. “Back in the day, only the Shemiran locals would frequent here, but it’s become a popular tourist spot in Tehran, particularly during Nowruz season when everything takes on a whole other vibe.”
Each year at this time, Habib takes pride in displaying elements of the Haft Sin on handmade copper dishes outside his shop.
It is a tradition observed in every Iranian home during Nowruz: an arrangement of seven (‘haft’) items starting with ‘S’ or the Persian letter ‘sin’, each representing an aspect of spring: ‘sabzeh’ or wheatgrass symbolising rebirth, ‘samanu’ or sweet pudding symbolising fertility, ‘senjed’ or dried oleaster symbolising love, ‘seer’ or garlic symbolising health, ‘seeb’ or apple symbolising beauty, ‘sekkeh’ or coins symbolising wealth, and ‘serkeh’ or vinegar symbolising patience.
The spread can also contain ‘sonbol’ or hyacinth – typically purple, but also pink or white – symbolising the beauty of nature, and ‘somagh’ or sumac, whose deep red colour represents the rising sun.
Other symbolic elements can include a mirror, candles, coloured eggs, goldfish, and a ‘Book of Wisdom’, which is usually the Quran but can also be the Shahnameh (Epic of Kings), Divan-e-Hafez (book of love poetry), or Avesta.
Decorating the Haft Sin, a favourite Nowruz activity in Iranian households similar to decorating Christmas trees and wrapping gifts in other cultures, involves placing the Haft Sins in the most elegant part of the home.
Samanu, one of the components of Haft Sin, is a brown pudding made from germinated wheat sprouts and flour, prepared exclusively for Nowruz.
A highlight of visiting Tajrish Bazaar this season is stopping by a samanu stall, where vendors stand over a large pot, stirring the mixture with a wooden spoon and serving it hot.
There is no need to add sugar, as its sweetness comes naturally from wheat germination.
Sense of nostalgia
Tajrish, located in Tehran’s affluent Shemiran neighborhood at the foothills of the Alborz Mountains, stands out from other traditional bazaars in the city due to its favourable climate and proximity to the Imamzadeh Saleh mosque, a prominent pilgrimage site.
Shemiran, once a village absorbed into the capital in the mid-20th century, is still considered a separate area by some long-time residents, who refer to crossing into Tehran as ‘going into the city’.
And Tajrish Bazaar was where they often gathered.
“We’re talking about not only a marketplace but also a local forum, the vibrant heart of the community,” says Maryam Jalali, a tour guide based in Tehran. “It was where Shemiranis would convene to catch up on the day’s news, share stories, and discuss matters of public interest.”
Semblances of that culture exist to this day. In an increasingly digitised era where social isolation is becoming the norm, people still flock to places like Tajrish to revive tradition and recapture an authentic communal sense.
“Even in these uncertain times and poor economy, spending time in the bazaar atmosphere evokes nostalgia,” Maryam points out. “It is a refreshing experience whether you come to buy something or not.”
Preservation of Nowruz
With this year’s Nowruz falling on 20 March, or the first of Farvardin in 1404 on the Persian solar calendar, it’s common to see street performers dressed in bright red attire with charcoal-covered faces roaming Tajrish Bazaar as Haji Firooz.
This mythological character, linked to spring, welcomes the new year by singing and playing the tambourine.
More than just a celebration of the new year, Nowruz symbolises endurance and serves as an act of defiance. This 3,500-year-old tradition is rooted in Zoroastrianism, predating both Christianity and Islam, and flourished under the ancient Persian Empire.
Although the Arab invasion in 650 CE halted festivities for over two centuries and ruling clerics attempted to abolish Nowruz after the Islamic Revolution in 1979, Iranians have successfully preserved their New Year’s customs to this day.
Families continue to clean their homes, wear new clothes in preparation for spring, and gather around the Haft Sin table to count down to the new year, celebrating at the exact moment of ‘sa’at tahvil’, symbolising the forgiveness of past grievances, letting go of petty conflicts, and looking forward to more positive relationships.
Tara Jamali is a freelance journalist and multimedia specialist who holds a degree in global communications from the American University of Paris
Follow her on X: @jamali_tara
