Despite being such a small country, each region of Israel has a distinct identity. The north is no exception. It is fantastically diverse, home to a wonderful selection of art, culture and food. Given the range of things on offer there, every visit comes with the prospect of making a new discovery.
Over the last year or so many in this region have suffered terribly. This includes both those displaced and those who were able to stay in their homes. The area is then worthy of our time and support. This is not an act of charity though, as there is so much to enjoy. And it’s all of that which we explore in this latest part of a series from Jewish News with the Israeli Government Tourist Office.
Israelis are, by nature, creative and innovative people. These tendencies are certainly on display in the stunning artists village of Ein Hod. Sitting there under the cool offered by the trees, having a drink from the rather hipster looking coffee van, it feels very peaceful.
You know you have arrived in Ein Hod when you see the first sculpture
Yet this is also a vibrant place. It is brimming with fascinating boutiques, ancient stories and modern art, much of which is inspired by the stunning Carmel landscapes that surround the village. The green hills seem almost endless. Quite understandably, the village is campaigning to receive special status.
The museums and galleries there boast a wide range of exhibits – from traditional paintings to more interactive works. I walked around one gallery wearing a cardboard black sheep’s head! In case you’re worrying that I’d taken leave of my senses, or perhaps enjoyed a bit too much of the region’s wine, (more of which in a minute…) I should point out that this construction contained an iPhone that produced animated video over the work I was looking at. It completed the exhibitions storytelling. Some of what is discussed is difficult to hear. Ein Hod itself has a complex history as Palestinian communities previously lived there but fled decades ago. This was though a very engaging exhibition highlighting things that are worth being aware of.
The work of Ein Hod resident Lea Ben Arye
While for visitors Ein Hod is a collection of galleries and works, for the artists it mostly home. Some are part of families who have lived there for generations and one of the museums lets certain families have a room. The quantity and quality of the work on show is something to behold. Sometimes, select families open their front doors and show of their work so tourists can get an even better sense of life in the village.
A scenic path in Ein Hod, the artists haven
As with most places in Israel, food is a hugely significant part of life in the north. And, like most places in Israel, it is very, very good! While there are a host of fantastic restaurants in cities like Haifa where you can enjoy dinner, for example the Vania Bistro, near the port.
Chef Vered Fern
However, it is also great fun to make your own – at least when it is part of a private cookery class. The one I attended took place at the Vered Fern Studio in Haifa and began with a refreshing frozen cocktail, which is always a good start. Chef Vern Fern then took us through producing a number of delicious (and kosher) courses. The studio is in Talpiot Market and is s something of a dream modern kitchen built inside incredible older architecture. A really enjoyable way to spend an evening. I even learnt an extra-fast way to make ice cream.
What is food without wine though? Luckily, there is the Tulip Winery to visit. Such places have become very popular since the Covid-19 pandemic. They are chilled out and often offer covered outdoor places to sit or walk.
Founded in 2003 and still run by members of the Itzhaki family who created it, the Tulip Winery is in Kfar Tikva – the Village of Hope. That has been around since the 1960s, when it was founded by German Jewish agronomist Dr Siegfried Hirsch. It operates in a similar manner to a kibbutz. Residents have special educational needs and it offers them social activities and a communal dining room
The idea of Tulip is to have “a winery with social impact,” explains our winemaker host and many Kfar Tikva residents contribute to the running of this successful business. There are others, also with special needs, who are “very independent” and live nearby who also work there. It makes for a distinct, rather welcoming atmosphere. Furthermore, the eye-catching label of the company’s flagship brand was created by someone with Downs Syndrome, following a competition.
The winery produces somewhere in the region of 300,000 – 400,000 bottles a year, 25 percent of which is exported. After a quick taste of the produce in the winery’s bright, spacious visitor centre I was plotting the various ways I could bring some home.
The Tulip Winery tasting bar
Alongside the Tulip wines, the winery has the Maia brand, which was launched in 2012. Those wines are more Mediterranean in style. Israeli wines are traditionally quite heavy, sitting in the barrel for a long time. These are not really designed for consumption in 34-degree heat! “We thought about how are we making wines that are more appropriate to the temperatures and the Mediterranean style of living,” explains out host. After some research, the company now has links with various cities in the Mediterranean and another set of delicious wines to offer.
My visit took place during harvest season and the winery was buzzing with activity as workers went through the various parts of the winemaking process. However, as with elsewhere, Tulip has not been untouched by the war, which limited some of their harvest. Indeed, I was shown a missile fragment that staff found in one of vineyards. While it’s not clear which side fired the missile, the impact on the business is indisputable. “You can call it war wine,” the winemaker says. It demonstrates “the complexity that we live in.”
A silkscreen of Ein Hod available to buy in the secret haven
At points, before the ceasefire came into force, Tulip workers were able to see Hezbollah fighters at their posts as they went about their business. No surprise, as some of the vineyards are just five metres from the Lebanese border. The harvest has been disrupted but, appropriately for a Village of Hope, the winery has been determined to carry on, despite the challenges of the war, and was hosting lots of visitors who were enjoying a lovely food selection along with the wine. That the north of Israel contains both big cities like Haifa and villages like Ein Hod and Kfar Tikva contributes to the distinct feel of the region. These features made it a special place to visit.
