When your minicab is a no-show, and there are five instead of four, with that extra baggage, it isn’t the best start to a ski foray. As luck would have it, a nice gentleman in a huge seven-seater Seat Alhambra was only five minutes away – no mean feat at 4:45 am, so things were on the up.
A smooth transit through Heathrow, an easy flight to Basel – a refreshingly uncomplicated airport that often gets overlooked – and we were soon being whisked through the picturesque Swiss countryside and into Austria.
Our destination was born out of a combination of the cost-of-living crisis, my curiosity for pistes anew, and an immensely successful family trip across the valley in Brand last season.
Montafon, a name probably unknown to most British skiers, fits the bill perfectly: fewer people, more peace, great facilities and quite outstanding value for money.
Our base for the week was the much vaunted Alpenfeuer Montafon, a three-star superior; one of few in the area. Despite being a step down from our usual choices in terms of official star ratings, what it lacked in bells and whistles it more than made up for in quality and thoughtful touches, making it ideal for our needs.
Caron and family on the slopes
Run by the Röschl family, the hotel and its staff welcomed us so warmly, making us feel at home from the moment we arrived. The newly-renovated rooms with balconies had more modern comforts than many higher-rated hotels, including their very own tablets for tv and tech and we slept like babies on heavenly mattresses. A clever layout meant interconnecting rooms with our youngest and our 13-year-old directly next door with his best friend. We soon found that soundproofing was exceptional! Another huge plus were sparkling ensuites with power showers for all three bedrooms.
Food was a highlight of our stay and something that elevated the Alpenfeuer way above its official rating, important for foodies unwilling to compromise and needing to make sure there were enough ‘suitable’ choices for a Jewish family. Breakfast was a daily feast of freshly baked warm bread, local cheeses and jams, fresh fruit, cold cuts, eggs and state-of-the-art coffee machines producing the perfect cup of locally-ground coffee. Dinner didn’t disappoint either: a daily fresh seasonal salad buffet followed by mouth-watering soups and a choice of mains which always included a well-balanced vegetarian option. Dessert was equally impressive as was an excellent buffet of local cheeses to round off. Every dish was of high-quality and locally sourced. It was clear that great care had gone into every aspect of the menu.
The hotel spa was small but perfectly formed. With several saunas, a steam room and a quiet area to relax, it was a little oasis to come home to.
Bedroom at Alpenfeuer Montafon
But it was Silvretta Montafon itself that offered everything we might have wished for. A huge 140 kilometres of pistes served by no less than 35 lifts and impressively connected, modern lift systems. The state-of-the-art cable car, Valisera Bahn, is but a two-minute walk to the bus stop and a seven-minute ride away, and it made getting onto the slopes very easy.
Pistes were wide, quiet and beautifully groomed. For seasoned skiers there’s lots of variety, while the kids loved the tree-lined trails and jumps. Even better, the whole area felt very safe, which meant they could ski alone. It was a totally new experience for us as a family, watching them become independent in such a safe and well-organised environment, and it added an entirely new dimension to the trip.
As we were packing up to leave, Steffen and Lena Röschl, the husband-and-wife team behind Alpenfeuer, were opening the doors to their brand-new hotel venture right next door: Montafon Moments. The passion and vision behind Montafon Moments are unmistakable. Whereas Alpenfeuer has been designed as a more sophisticated base for adults wanting to relax and unwind, Montafon Moments is a true family hotel. With dedicated play areas for younger and older children, an innovative self-service shop in the lobby, and an online check-in system, it’s a hotel built for modern families. The dining room, with its upcycled interiors, combines sustainability with style, while the spa is huge, offering plenty of space for wellness and relaxation. It is incredible that the whole renovation was done within five months, and it is beautiful.
Sauna at Alpenfeuer Montafon
Montafon itself is a bit of a secret gem. It doesn’t have the name recognition of resorts like St Anton or Lech just down the valley but that’s part of its charm. The skiing is quiet and stress-free, with modern facilities and breathtaking views, but without the crowds and chaos of the better-known resorts. The transfer from Zurich is quick and straightforward—just under two hours—and the valley has an unpretentious, relaxed vibe.
The magic of Montafon, combined with the Röschl family’s warm welcome and the quiet, safe slopes, created something memorable.
A quick recommendation for families with teenagers: Dope Snow ski-gear is a must. It’s the perfect combination of cool, practical, and hard-wearing – exactly what you need for active, style-conscious teens. Hotel guests enjoy half-price rental at Intersport Montafon. The ski lockers are housed in a vast, modern set-up, by the shop at the lifts, adding another element of ease to a relaxing ski break.
One week half board at Alpenfeuer Montafon costs €2975 for a family of four.
