During my recent visit to Oman, I had the privilege of hearing Dr Laila Ahmed Al Najjar, the country’s Minister of Social Development, speak at the five-year celebration of Sultan Haitham bin Tariq Al Said’s accession to the throne on 7 January 2025.
Her speech covered several important topics, but what stood out to me most was her discussion of the social programmes she oversees, particularly those dedicated to children with specific needs.
Oman’s National Autism Center in Muscat — one of the few in the Gulf region — was highlighted, and this recognition resonated with me personally, reminding me of my own journey.
At the age of seven, I was diagnosed with autism at Maudsley Hospital in London in the 1990s, a time when autism was poorly understood, support was minimal, and discussing it publicly was difficult, leaving the future for people like me uncertain and overwhelming.
A mother’s determination and courage
Despite the lack of support for those diagnosed with autism at the time, my story was different, as I was fortunate to have an incredible mother who made my journey much easier.
Born in Damascus into the literary Kabbani family, my mother — a Muslim, academic, and writer — not only accepted my diagnosis but also fought to give me a chance. Her determination has shaped my journey in ways words cannot fully describe.
Facing numerous challenges, she researched autism, determined to help me succeed, and tailored lessons to my needs every day, consistently supporting and encouraging my curiosity, whether I was interested in reading Japanese literature or exploring Baltic cuisine.
In addition to this, when I was younger, she created an unconventional plan to help me understand human behaviour. We watched world cinema together, listened to music from various cultures, and memorised poetry in both English and French.
Through these experiences, she believed that great poems have an electrifying emotional core that individuals with autism can learn to connect with.
In my view, this exposure not only helped me understand my feelings but also how to express them.
We also created a variety of scents by mixing exotic spices and perfumed oils, and frankincense, always burning in our house, became a comforting presence when I visited the ancient frankincense sites in Oman.
There, I was particularly fascinated to learn that the late Sultan Qaboos, who had a deep appreciation for aromas, could craft precious scents from the exquisite roses of Jabal al-Akhdar, mixing them with oud, ambergris, sandalwood, and musk, much like the Umayyad Caliphs in Syria and the Ottoman Sultans in Turkey did throughout Islamic history.
Reflecting on this visit, I began to consider how autism often manifests in heightened sensory perception, affecting not only the five senses but also revealing itself mysteriously in a sixth sense, and how many mystics and spiritual figures throughout history have exhibited traits of autism.
Breaking taboos
It has been nearly a month since my visit, and it’s encouraging to see Oman, once a country that overlooked or misunderstood autism, now undergoing significant changes as society evolves and reforms take shape.
For many years, autism was not openly discussed in Oman; however, in recent times, the country has made remarkable progress.
This is particularly evident with the opening of the National Autism Center, a pioneering initiative that plays an essential role in a culture where taboos around disabilities can be strong.
During my visit to the centre, I was warmly welcomed by Miaad Al Hinai, the head of services, who shared some insights about the centre’s beginnings.
She explained, “The centre had a soft opening in 2022, with 40 children participating. We began with sessions from 8 am to 2 pm.”
As we toured the facility, I was shown several rooms where children practised important skills, like making their bed or setting the table for a meal.
Next, I visited a special area with soft surfaces for play, which reminded me of the liberating experience of jumping on bouncy castles or trampolines in similar centres around the world.
A unique feature of the centre is its in-house dentist and barber, designed specifically to cater to the sensitivities many children with autism have regarding dental check-ups or haircuts.
This thoughtful approach extends to parent involvement, allowing them to observe their children from a designated vantage point and learn strategies from therapists to apply at home.
The centre’s design is also tailored to meet the children’s needs: the walls are curved to avoid sharp corners, which can be unsettling for some autistic children.
Another great addition is the cafeteria, which offers free breakfast in the morning and lunch for those staying through the afternoon.
That said, one fascinating aspect of the centre is its music room, where all children learn music, a valuable tool for their emotional and cognitive development.
Mustafa, a young boy I met, was playing the piano, and what struck me was his ability to play any melody after hearing it just once, which is one of the characteristics of many autistic people: an exceptional musical memory.
Looking ahead, the centre, which serves children aged 2 to 26 and employs 86 therapists, many of whom also support the Autism Center in Salalah, already has plans to open more centres across Oman’s regions.
Differences are respected and embraced
While the centre represents a significant and progressive shift in how autism is understood and treated, it’s important to remember that autism remains a complex issue, requiring ongoing efforts in specialised education, therapeutic support, and awareness.
Despite the challenges, the progress made in Oman shows that inclusion is both possible and beneficial for society, and as these initiatives grow, there is hope for a future where differences are fully respected and embraced.
Leaving Oman, I felt a deep admiration for the progress made, with the National Autism Center serving as a model for the region.
A society is judged by how it treats its most vulnerable members, and Oman’s progress in this area is something to celebrate.
[Cover photo: National Autism Center in Muscat (c) Fatma Al-Maawali]
Alexander Seale is a British freelance journalist based in London. He is bilingual in English and French and lived in Paris for 11 years
Follow him on X: @AlexSeale
